A Random Glossary of Useful Drinking Terms in Japan

A Drinkers Guide to Useful Drinking Terms in Japan*

*Work in progress.

by Matthew M. Kaufman

Tachinomiya (立ち飲み屋 )a standing bar.

Kakuuchi (角打ち)A combined liquor store and bar that sells canned and simple bar food. You usually can take cans and bottles of  out of the refrigerator and drink them at the bar. Whiskey and sake is served at the counter.

Izakaya (居酒屋)- a pub with tapas like dishes

Yatai (やたい) An outdoor stand.

Part I: Bottle Sizes

The most important kanji you need to know for tachinomi: 瓶 Bin (bottle). The largest size is 大瓶(daibin in Kansai dialect or obin in standard Japanese). They are usually 633ml but some are 643ml. The middle size is 中瓶(chubin), which is 500ml. The smallest size is 小瓶(shobin in Kansai dialect and kobin in standard Japanese), which is 334ml. If you see this on the menu 大瓶600円 then get the hell out of there. A true tachinomi jedi will pay no more than 500 yen for a daibin. Anything under 400 yen is a great deal.

Mifune.Daibin380

Part Ii:  Snacks and Side Dishes

1. tsumami つまみ is the term snacks or side dishes that go well with alcohol. Anything from peanuts and edamame to yakitori and sausages. The term ”ate” from (“sake no ate” 酒のあて) is more commonly used in Kansai.

2. The small appetizer dishes are served with your drinks are called “otooshi” (お通し) or “tsukidashi” (突き出し) Some nomiya make you pay 200 to 500 yen for tsukidashi as a cover/table charge but this practice is not common in cheap tachinomiya. You cannot avoid the charge by refusing the dish, but it is cheaper than leaving a tip.

3. Another great term is “sakana” (肴) which can refer to a side dish of food and/or shit talking while drinking. Badmouthing someone or gossiping in order to take the drinking session to the next level.

Example sentence: 彼らは上司の悪口を肴にして酒を飲んだ. They badmouthed their boss to give added zest to their drinking.

Part III: Shochu

Another good kanji to know: 焼酎 shochu. I’m no shochu expert and there are several good sites on the web in English. Oyuwari shochu (お湯割り焼酎), shochu and hot water, is a tachinomiya standard that usally sells for 180 to 300 yen a glass. You can get it wih ume or lemon (I prefer lemon). It will warm you up in the winter and make you feel (slightly) better if you have a cold. I like it because whenever I order one at a new place, the master and customers are usually surprised (in a good way). It helps to break the ice in a crowded nomiya full of regulars. You usually have a choice between barley (mugi), sweet potatoes (imo), buckwheat (soba), or rice (kome).

OyuwariShochu
Part IV: Harigami

A good tachinomiya will have lots of old faded paper harigami (張り紙 or 貼り紙) on the wall with the names of dishes and prices. This place has the “permanent menu”/harigami combo with the all important tape overs. Old tape on the harigami is another good sign. I’m not sure if there is a special word for the permanent menu on the wall.

harigami

Part V: Taishu Sakeba

Kanji of the day: 大衆酒場 (taishuu sakaba): a cheap drinking spot, a saloon, a pub. For the record, I have never heard anyone say “taishuu sakaba” once in 20 years of living in Osaka (Or maybe they did say it and I had no idea what they meant. Shows how much I know). The kanji 大衆酒場 is found on the signs and noren of many tachinomiya and cheap bars. Here it is on the awning of Heihachi in Juso (which burned down in a fire).

Heihachi

Part VI: Under The Tracks

Two more important terms: ガード下 (gaado shita) “under the tracks; area under the girders of a railway or highway (often used for shops, bars, etc.)” and 高架下(koukashita) “under a girder bridge;under the elevated structure”. This is where you can find many cheap tachinomiyas and dive bars such as Ibata in Juso and Ikoi in Nakatsu. (Tokyo has Yurakucho). Kobe has 地獄の谷 Jigoku no Tani (Hell Valley–not be confused with the one near Noda Station in Osaka). It’s located near the West Exit of JR Kobe Station.

KobeUnderTracks

The Society of Girder(ガード下の学会) is a club led by Kobayashi Ichiro that explores areas under the tracks. They’ve published several books and articles (including an extensive guide to Osaka that can be downloaded on PDF. If you think that the group is made up of trainspotters, otaku and middle aged ossan, guess again. Most of the participants who joined the Girders tour of Umeda and Nakatsu last November were young women. A PDF of the Osaka tour can also be downloaded under the heading of 関西ガード下ツアーが紹介されました http://www.underguard.org/

Part VII

A place that is difficult to enter is called “hairi-zurai” (入りづらい). This does not mean that the staff or customers will not welcome you..it describes the hesitation you feel before opening the door and walking in. The noun form is hairi-zurasa and some bloggers rate a place like this: 入り辛さ:★★★☆☆

 

Part VIII:

鯨飲馬食 (ゲイインバショク gei-in bashoku) is an old Chinese and Japanese term that means “Drink like a Whale, Eat Like a horse.” 鯨のように多量の酒を飲み、馬のように多量の物を食べること It was taught to us by our good friend Tatsuya. Many people have not heard this obscure term and think we made it up, but it is real. It has become our group motto.https://kotobank.jp/word/鯨飲馬食-488149

難波マルフクMarufuku (Namba)

by Matt Kaufman

Located across the street from Bic Camera. Cross the Sennichimae and walk into the shotengai. Turn right at the takoyaki restaurant with the red awning . Marufuku is the third restaurant down. The master is a very friendly guy from the Philippines who has lived in Osaka for 30 years. Marufuku specializes in cheap meat dishes for ¥160 to ¥350 (you don’t have to like horumon to enjoy them). I recommend the tontoro (fatty meat around the cheek and the neck ¥250) hanasuji (snout ¥250), kobukuro (uterus..so that’s what I ate ¥250), rosu (sirloin, ¥300). Be sure to try the special sauce on the counter. Beer: namachu is ¥350 and a daibin or Kirin or Asahi is ¥390 (now ¥440). Be sure to try Kobe Cup Sake for ¥250. Glass bottles of Pepsi are ¥120. Ask the master about the ¥800 beer and 2 meat special. He speaks English fluently. Open from 4PM to 5AM weekdays. 1PM to 5AM weekends and holidays.
難波マルフク
住  所:大阪市中央区千日前1-9-19  (Sennichimae 1-9-19)Image

Image

ImageImageImageImageImageImage

Stand Takachiho スタンド 高千穂

by Matt Kaufman

Stand Takachiho is a popular little spot at the end of the Sanno Shotengai that attracts a mixed crowd of all ages. It’s a family owned business run by a delightful purple haired mama in her 80s. I was surprised that Takahiro has only been in business for two years. It seems like it has been around for decades. They are famous for their wonderful hot egg club sandwiches (¥480)

All food 250-700
Beer: Daibin 460
Chuhai 300~
Hi Ball 330
Sake 300~
Glass of wine 380~

Draft beer
Small 200
Medium 400
Large 500
Mega 780

 

西成区山王3-18-16 Nishinari Sanno 3-18-16
Osaka 557-0001

From Subway Dobutsuenmae Exit 2 Walk into the shotegai and walk all the way down until the shotengai completely ends. Takachiho is on the left. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sunday and Monday.

https://www.facebook.com/tachinomi.takachiho/?ref=br_rs

 

 

Hitomi Saketen 人見酒店 in Ebie

by Matt Kaufman

I’ve been meaning to come to this place in Ebie for 3-4 years. It was closed the first rime I went with a few friends after drinking around Noda Hanshin Station. Went there the other day and it was fantastic! 300 yen Kirin beer (not happoshu) in a nice sized glass. Chuhai and shochu only 200 yen. Sake 320 yen. Huge selection of whiskey and scotch. The young master was a really friendly guy. He told us Hitomi Saketen is 90 years old. It underwent a renewal 11 years ago. Nice long bar and plenty of space in the back. He gave me his meishi and his last name is 人見 so I assume he is the grandson(?) of the original owner. We had the homemade hamburger set of two and a bag of Doritos served in a plate. Ebie is a great place to explore and it is nice to have a bar to go to after drinking in Nakagawa Saketen near Nodahanshin Station. About a 12 minute walk from Nodahanshin Station. 大阪府大阪市福島区海老江3丁目6−19 Osaka-shi Fukushima-ku Ebie 3 chome 6-19.
電話: 06-6451-6523

Ichifuku (Takoyaki/Ikayaki) 一富久 Destination Hanazono Part 2

by Matt Kaufman

Address:大阪府 大阪市西成区 花園南 1-9-31  Osaka-shi Nishinari-ku Hanazono 1-9-13
Tel: 06-6657-0225
 
Open: Wednesday to Sunday. 11;00-19:30. Open on National Holidays. Closed Mon, Tues
Nearest Station; Hanazono Station Exit 3-B (5 minutes) Nankai Tengachaya West Exit 10 minutes
Type: Takoyaki, Ikayaki
Founded: 1958
Beer: Asahi Super Dry Can ¥300 yen with set.

 

On my second visit to Hanazono, I was fortunate enough to be taken to a landmark and institution by three locals who grew up in the area. Ichifuku has been serving takoyaki and ikayaki to hungry residents since 1958. Takoyaki and Ikayaki can be considered Osaka soul food and you don’t last sixty years unless you make the best.  Takoyaki has evolved over the years and some places add things like cheese but Ichifuku keeps it simple, and former residents of the area from all over Japan often come back to enjoy the same taste they remember from childhood.  Ichifuku recommends eating their takoyaki with two spoonfuls of ponzu vinegar and sprinkling them with Shichi-mi tōgarashi (唐辛子, seven-flavor chili pepper),

Ichifuku is primarily a takeout place. The staff will ask customers if they are in a hurry so they can prepare them quicker than usual. If you choose to eat at the counter (10 seats) you can watch them make your food at a much slower pace, and watching them mix the batter and turning them quickly  on the takoyaki grill so they don’t burn never gets old. The ikayaki press looks like the sort of contraption found at an old laundry used to take wrinkles out of disheveled trousers.  One of the best thing about Ichifuku is that the location keeps hoards of tourists away and you can experience eating takoyaki as a local. If it were in Namba or Umeda it would be as packed as say,  Wanaka (also excellent!) and the lines would be around the block.

Ichifuku is also known for their many sets and combos that will suit people who just want to have a snack and others who feeling like splurging on a full meal with cold beer, soup and a couple of tasty side dishes. There is even an option for vegetarians*. You can order the Tako-nashi set (¥400), 14 pieces loaded with ginger and scallions instead of octopus. *The set is not advertised as being vegetarian. I will confirm it on my next visit.

I am going to translate as much of the menu as I can below.

Takoyaki: 7 (¥320),  10 (¥440) , 15 (¥650)  I think they had prices listed for 5, 8, and 20 too.

Takoyaki Drink Set: 7 takoyaki plus soft drink: cola, cider, orange soda, oolong tea (¥420)

Takoyaki Beer Set:  7 takoyaki plus can of Asahi Super Dry (¥620)

Takoyaki Soup: Contains 6 takoyaki (¥400)

Takoyaki Negi Nose: Takoyaki topped with scallions 7 (¥360)  10 (¥480)

Takoyaki Negi Nose Beer Set:  Takoyaki topped with scallions + Can of Asahi Super Dry Beer 7 (¥660),  10 (¥780)

Takoyaki Healthy Set:  7 Takoyaki, Toroten (心太 gelidium jelly –made into thin strips and eaten with vinegar) and two spoonfuls of black honey. (¥520)

Osumashi Set:  7 Takoyaki and osumashi soup (¥420)

Tako-nashi Set:  14 pieces loaded with ginger and scallions instead of octopus (¥400),

 

Suyaki: Squid grilled in vineger (ponzu?) No eggs. (¥270)

Ikayaki Tamago:  (squid omelet)  (¥320)

Ikayaki Tamago W: Same as above. Think W stands for Wide. (¥370)

Kyabe Tamago  Squid cabbage and eggs omelet (¥420)

Kyabe Tamago W: Same as above but wide? Will confirm. (¥520)

Ikasupe Think this stands for Ika special. Must confirm (¥520)

Beer Set: Add ¥300 for can of Asahi Super Dry

Soft Serve Ice Cream ¥150

 

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

IMG_2571IMG_2576IMG_2570IMG_2575IMG_2573IMG_2569

DESTINATION HANAZONO (Part I)

by Matt Kaufman

Tamayu Ramen Tengaiten (タマユラメン天外天)

AKA 博多ラーメン天外天

Address: 大阪府大阪市西成区1-2-13  Osaka-shi Nishinari-ku Matsu 1-2-13
Open: Everyday from 11;30-14:00,  18:00-05:00)
Nearest Station; Hanazono Station Exit 3-B (5 minutes) Nankai Tengachaya West Exit 6 minutes
Type: Chinese Restaurant
Founded: ?
Beer: Asahi Super Dry Medium Bottle: 500 yen

 

 

 

Tamayu

I decided to set off in search of the legendary Osaka Ramen (大阪らーめん), a located favorite that is famous for 200 yen ramen. The price was 100 yen for many years. I have been going to Osaka Hanten大阪飯店, another local favorite near Kishinosato Station that is also famous for it’s delicious 200 yen ramen. I found out that the master of Osaka Hanten served as an apprentice at Osaka Ramen for several years before deciding to open his own place in the mid eighties. The owner of Osaka Ramen is getting up there in years so his restaurant is only open sporadically. I could have called ahead, or at least written down the address, but sometimes it is more fun to just explore, especially in the age of smart phones with precise GPS that can pinpoint any location.

I got off at Tengachaya Station and walked towards Kita Tengachaya Station on the Hankai Line (Tram). Osaka Ramen is actually one stop down, near Matsuda Station, a short walk away but I didn’t know that at the time and started walking back to the other side of Tengachaya Station. I wandered around aimlessly for about 20 minutes and came across a ramen shop that advertised Nagasaki Chanpon called Tamayu Tengaiten(タマユラメン天外天 The Italian style tomato ramen with cream cheese caught my eye and I was getting hungry. Decided to go in.  The place was about to close for the afternoon, but I managed to get my order in. There was only one guy doing all the cooking, probably a good sign. I don’t want my ramen prepared by some part-time high school kid whose heart is not into it.

The tomato ramen was good but it did not fill me up for 750 yen. I realized that I should have gotten the set for a couple of hundred yen more or at least ordered a side of gyoza like I usually do.  Decided to walk back towards Tengachaya Station and stumbled upon the entrance to Hanazono Street, which is located between Tengachaya and Haginochaya Station.  The entire street has a very Showa 80s vibe. I realized that I had never been in this area between. I walk a bit up the block and there it was…Osaka Ramen. But it was closed.

 

 

 

IMG_2246IMG_2247IMG_2244IMG_2242

IMG_2245
Osaka Ramen

Kuise Station (Hyogo) & Chibune Station (Osaka)

by Matt Kaufman

12.30.2017
I took the train from Hanshin Namba (which I had no idea existed until today), towards Amagasaki and changed trains for the Umeda line at Daimotsu.  I got off one stop later at Kuise Station. The entire ride took 20 minutes, much shorter than expected, but I managed to finish reading Suicide Casanova, a very entertaining novel by Arthur Nessian. This was my first time in Kuise and it reminded me a bit of Taisho Station on the Loop Line. I was here to meet JYT, a trilingual photographer and teacher from Montreal who has lived in Japan for sixteen years. He arrived on his bicycle a few minutes later and we set out to explore the nearby Showa Shopping Road.

Ikenaga Saketen 池永 酒店

IMG_1188

Address: Hyogo Ken Amagasaki shi Kuise Honmachi 1 Chome 24-13
〒660-0814 兵庫県尼崎市杭瀬本町1丁目24−13
Tel: 06-6481-2441
Open:
Nearest Station; Hanshin Kuise (5 minutes)
Type: kakuuchi 角打ち(combined liquor store and bar)
Founded: Showa 6 (1931)
Price for a daibin 大瓶 (large bottle of beer)  : ¥400*

Continue reading “Kuise Station (Hyogo) & Chibune Station (Osaka)”

Mukai Saketen 向井酒店

by Matt Kaufman

Visited Mukai Saketen, an 80 year old tachinomiya near Temmabashi. Fantastic old relic. They have a 70 year old sake poster of a geisha on the wall. Like drinking in a museum. I noticed an interesting plant. The mama told me it was wasabi. They grow their own. Get out at JR Temmabashi or Ogimachi Station. Walk towards Doshin同心 Mukai Saketen is a couple of blocks past OASIS. 向井酒店 7 minute walk from Temmabashi Station. 大阪市北区同心2-3-17 (Kita-Ku Doshin 2-3-17) 18:00-21:00 M-F)

 

Susumu すすむ Standing Yakiniku @ Temmabashi

by Matt Kaufman

Had the best yakiniku meal at SUSUMU in Temmabashi. The first place I’ve been to that serves LAMBCHOP (¥500) in Japan. Everything was delicious. I also enjoyed YEBISU CREAMY TOP on tap. Good beer.

While I was there two young ladies from Singapore came in and asked if I could read Japanese. So I ended up ordering for them. They left and a couple from Indonesia came in. The man asked me the same question so I ordered for them too. I think I have disproved that (funny) Tanaka Ken viral video “But we’re speaking Japanese!”twice in less than 45 minutes.

Susumu is highly recommended. You can try a variety of dishes for around 300 yen. The rosu and bara are a must.

About five minutes from JR Temmabashi. 天神橋5-6-22 丸山マンション 1F (Tenjinbashi 5-6-33 Maruyama Mansion 1F) Open 17:00-24:00.

Butthole Surfers vs Boredoms Live in Osaka (From Exile Osaka #2)

ButtholeSurfersBoredoms

BUTTHOLE SURFERS vs. THE BOREDOMS

Club Quattro 9/28

Publication: Exile Osaka: Japan Underground Bizarro World (Issue #2)
Author: Matt Kaufman

I was debating whether to see this show when it was announced because I had heard that after Lollapalooza and the Stone Temple Horseshit tour, the Buttholes had degenerated into some second rate cabaret lounge act. When the Boredoms were added to the show I decided to drop the Yen on tickets.

The show was held at Club Quattro, which is located on the ninth floor of The Parco Building in Shinsaibashi. There are two other Quattros in Tokyo and Nagoya. A lot of lesser known acts (at least in Japan) often play here. Porno for Pyros played here last night. The Pastels are coming in November. There are also a couple of half decent record store in the building so it’s easy to kill time before a show.

I bought a bunch of Boredoms stickers while I was on line, but I didn’t have the ¥3000 for a t-shirt. (I should have bought one. It had a really unusual design by Eye and Yoshimi.) The inside of Quattro reminds me of The Roseland in NYC. Ever been there?

I was hanging out by the side of the stage and these two Japanese girls came up to me and asked, “Excuse me, are you King?” King? Who the fuck is that? Sounds like a dog’s name. I realized that I left my drink ticket in my jacket, so I went back to the bag-check lockers or whatever the fuck they’re called. Another girl comes up to me and asks me the same question. Yeah, I’m the King. The King of Rock. There ain’t none higher. Sucker MC’s they call me sire. Strange.

The Boredoms finally take the stage. Eye leaps into the crowd. Grunts. Screams. Sweat. Noize. Scum. Chaos. A typical Boredoms show. Eye and Yoshikawa slam serving trays together. I think that the audience at the Boredoms shows are half the fun. Let’s face it, most people do no appreciate or even try to understand what the Boredoms do. I learned that when I attended the Boredoms show at the New Music Seminar with four or five people. Only one of my friends “got it.” The others put their hands over their ears and run to the back of the club in horror. My friend Mike seriously thought the band was drunk and out of control. Good Grief!

Because the band cannot be easily defined and are not radio and MTV friendly (forgive me for using stupid industry terms), the average “alternative dork,” who digs shit like Pearl Jam and Alice in Chains, is not going to go out of his or her way to see a band like The Boredoms. This is especially true in Japan. Many people make the mistake of assuming that the average Japanese person has heard of bands like Shonen Knife and The Boredoms because they are known overseas. I would say that 99.9% of the people that I know have never heard of the Boredoms. Most young Japanese music fans are into crap like Bon Jovi, and nauseating big hair and lipstick bands such as X Japan and Princess Princess. The majority of the people who listen to “indie” music tend to lean toward pop bands such as the Lemonheads, Jesus Jones or whatever’s trendy at the moment. It’s also fair to assume that a number of people will see a Boredoms show solely because they’ve read the band opened up for Sonic Youth on their last tour, and consider a Japanese band I that position a novelty. But then again, the Boredoms are a novelty and I mean that in the best sense of the word. Bands today have very little idea how to put on a good performance. Even punk and hardcore bands rely on the same tired cliches that would put heavy metal bands to shame. Watching the Boredoms is like watching six different bands at once. Each member of the Boredoms either leads their own band and/or is involved in several of side projects that comprise different musical genres.

Even though Yamatsuka Eye is considered the main vocalist for the Boredoms, that role is constantly challenged onstage, allowing for more interaction between members of the band. Yoshikawa Toyohito is Eye’s alter-ego, doppleganger, sidekick, evil twin, and court jester rolled into one. Just as Public Enemy could not exist without Flavor Flav, The Boredoms would not be The Boredoms without Yoshikawa. Eye has said himself, that in many ways Yoshikawa is The Boredoms. Yoshimi P-we (ds.) narrates the chaos with high pitched screams and blasts of energy from her trumpet. When Yoshimi has had enough of watching the action from behind her drumkit, she’ll join in the melee and take control of the stage. Yamamoto (g.), Hira (b.) and percussionist ATR are the glue that hold the band together, but having seen Hanadensha and Omoide Hatoba live, I can tell you they are capable of exploding at any given moment. All these elements come together to make the Boredoms one of the most exciting live acts in the world.

The Boredoms put on a tremendous show and I start to leave before it hits me that The Butthole Surfers are on next. I need a beer. Good time to use that ¥500 drink ticket.

The Buttholes come on and the crowd goes berserk. People are jumping off tables. I guess a lot of people must have loaded up on isotonic drinks (Pocari Sweat etc.) during the Boredoms set because I can hardly move. I get kicked in the head a couple of times. Somebody needs to teach this crowd Stage Diving and Slam Dancing 101: How to Have a Good Time Without Causing Bodily Harm to Others. Look at me gripe. I must be getting old.

Gibby looks like Jim Morrison during his bearded pot-bellied stage right before he croaked. He’s pretty pissed off for some reason. The little effects doohickey that he uses doesn’t seem to be working properly. He seems as though he had a few cans of Sapporo before the show and he’s guzzling a Budweiser (Brewed in Japan) with a ciggy dangling from his mouth (Keith Richards style.)

The Background film showed someone getting circumcised. It might have had something to do with the theme of the show. I just wonder how they got the damn thing through customs at Narita, because I have friends who have been nabbed for bringing in a copy of Penthouse.

Although the show wobbled along in the beginning, the band got their shit together and showed Osaka how it’s done Texas scumbag style. I got kicked in the head again when a crazy fan dived off the railing during “Jesus Built My Hot Rod.” After the show I realized that King is the name of the drummer. Maybe I do look like him from a distance, in a poorly lit place after a few beers. I guess that I lost my chance to act like a rock god. Oh well, there’s always next year. I bought a pair of Ray-Bans just in case.